In America, Sundays are pretty much ‘everything open’ days. Not so much in the outlying areas of Italy – if judged by my village. Although due to a unique tourist hot spot here, we do get tourists every day. So six days a week, just about everything is open. There is also the ‘dead zone’ in all of Italy outside of the tourist areas…you know, that 1pm – 5 or 6pm siesta time. How does one cope???
Maybe we take this in smaller bites…first what are they doing from 1-5pm? Are they going home and napping? Socializing somewhere secretly? Or? Whatever they are doing, their businesses are closed. No food. No drink. For the very spoiled Americans, WHAT???? I need a sandwich, a cappuccino … help? Ah but eventually we who ‘eat at all times’ Americans learn that we will NOT be eating between 1-5. For some of us, foraging has become a new sport!
What? Foraging in Italy? Well, if you are retired, decide to sleep in, then lay around in bed, reading on your phone…finally get your lazy self up around noon, dress and head out for brunch. Au contraire!! One is not in Roma, Firenze, Venezia…so there is nothing open and on Sundays it is an even longer foraging situation.
Yes I finally learned to pack in some pasta and sauces, some frozen vegetables and try not to look cannibalistic as I roam in search of food. But oh, some of these Italian women or men, can make the most tantalizing sauces that waft out on the street and I’m irritated with myself that I have not charmed half of this village to invite me to dinner!
You may or may not know, but Italy, like France and probably Australia…keep the best wines, the best local wines…for themselves (and olive oil, cheeses, etc.). House wines are nothing short of lovely and divine and worth a try in most restaurants. Only once did I get a glass of wine that was a week away from being vinegar (tourist restaurant in Rome)…but I digress. I have found the Italian restaurants outside of the tourist areas like to make their guests happy. They want you to enjoy the food they make and take such pride in serving. Anyhow, back to professional foraging in my village.
I doubt they know that the first month I was stunned about the lack of food in their ‘un-magic’ hours. And on Sundays…I was screwed. For reasons only other mature experienced women will understand, I prefer not to cook anymore. And why would I ? Italy? Best food in the world!! Except not between 1-5pm and Sundays. So yes I can suck it up and fix a peanut butter and jelly sandwich or just plan ahead. I’m working on it.
A typical day is a trip to the local ferramente (hardware store) in neighboring Pettignano. Where Michele (Michael) speaks fluent English and the store has so many interesting things. This day, I was going back to buy a red mailbox. I saw it and pondered would it be too much? Too American? (as if I can hide from these people). Deciding that I’m going for the red (rossi) mailbox, I get on the bus and head to the Ferramente ! Along the way, I realize that sunflowers are in full bloom. All over this area and many more in Italy. From June through August. Riding the trains in Lazio, Tuscany, Umbria, Le Marche…they are stunning. Commonly used for sunflower oil. What is left from the oil gathering is used for livestock feed. Sadly Ukraine was the biggest producer of sunflowers…probably not this year. Anyhow, the fields are breathtaking and every bit as fabulous as the lavender fields. Just not so fragrant.
Somedays I just get on the train…I go to the stazione and look at the Board. Partenzi…what trains are departing, times and where. And off I went to Firenze (Florence). A 2 1/2 hour ride. The fields, the mountains, the villages and cities we passed…I never tire of looking at everything. And the tunnels make me giggle…oh these Italians like to build tunnels. Your phone loses cell service and you are left sitting there, wondering how you got so lucky to have these amazing adventures over and over? I find a seat with 3 cutie patootie Italian boys, 16 years old, heading to a beach they believe they will meet lots of Italian girls! They are Roman and so adorable. One speaks very good English and translates for all of us. They packed for a few days at this beach – and one of them has a country home near the beach. Oh to be young and dumb again…I remind them to have fun, flirt and laugh. Geez, I need to take my own advice! Shhhh, I do.
Arriving in Florence, at my favorite train station, Santa Maria Novella (SMN) I breathe it all in and simply wear a smile. Like an old lover, so friendly and warm…oh wait, that isn’t warm, it’s stinking hot here! As is most of Italy and the world…but I am here in familiar places and now it’s after 1pm. I am in the tourist area so food galore! Now I should know better than to trot into Centro Market (Central Market) believing that their AC should be blasting…it wasn’t. A better choice would have been one of the ristorantes but here I am. Finding the vegetarian food stand, I buy a veggie burger that is way to big to eat…like the majority of Ohioans, my eyes are bigger than my stomach!! With the help of 8 napkins, I do manage about half of it, drink my water and take off to find a friend. While I wait for my friend, I find AC refuge in a lovely ristorante by Santa Maria Novella Chiesa. An iced cappuccino with a bit of whip cream on top! Yes I am learning a few Italian words. I visit with my friend and all too soon, I have to catch the train back.
Arriving into Orte I must get a taxi home. It’s after 10pm…walking up the street to my home, I hear the Temptations singing “My Girl” at one of our outdoor cafes. And there sits a few of my Italian gal pals as I dance past them on home. None of them speak English, but they all love our music which tickles me no end. Yeah, a few dance moves that probably should not be done in public, but I did. We’ll laugh about it later.
Some people ask about buying groceries here…what do they stock? The cheeses are outrageous and not all are available in the US. Or at seriously high prices. I have about 4 kinds of cheese in my fridge at all times. One must be ready for emergency pasta.
I love my little village. I may not always but for now, the foreseeable future, I do. I like that people talk to each other, greet each other, smile and seem kind and interested. I’ve been here over a year off and on, and I’ve gotten to know quite a few of them. To some degree. I am now working and focusing on learning and speaking better Italian. My usual conversation was the noun I needed and much hand waving and possibly finally bringing out google translate. Besides the Italian language is so beautiful. I’m learning!
I leave at the end of the month for 3 months. For the first time, not back to America. To Montenegro, a country I don’t know, with people I’ve never met. And as you can probably guess, I am not a fast walker or runner so I take things fairly slow and safe. I’m sure I’ll be fine. And you will know how it is going as I am pretty sure I’ll have some interesting stories to share. Flying very very cheaply there on Wizzair – does not instill great flying confidence but we shall see (wonder who came up with that name?).
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