I think I live in a postcard! Sometimes I just stand somewhere, silently gasping at what I am seeing. The beautiful countryside, an amazing statue, paintings, mosaics, architecture, engineering…buildings that are unique and decorated so lovely…Italy truly is a planetary gift.
Somehow the Italians have managed to keep so much of the beauty untouched of if touched, with heavenly hands. I think I am in love.
It’s getting colder here and I am looking like ‘Nanuck of the North’ with winter coats, scarves, sweaters…and gloves. Still temps are not too bad but I feel the cold more. Living in Arizona can do that to you!! The air is brisk and the weather is clear. The afternoons are still pretty warm. It seems like a good idea to travel to northern places before it gets too cold, then head south. I like the day trips and I love the trains. Orte is a blessing of numerous trains going everywhere.
I decided to check out a mountain tip village called Spello in Umbria, Perugia province. Pretty close by. There are 20 Regions (like US states) and over 100 provinces (main cities in the regions). I am in Lazio region (as is Rome) and Umbria is a neighboring region to the east.
The Orte train station has numerous trains all day and into the evening, going every direction. Truly a great station. Spello was about an hour from Orte. So easy and trains run every hour there and back. Heading east, you go into many mountains. The green valleys and so many trees everywhere. The fields are lovely and I always wonder what are they going to plant there? But the trees…they have changed leaves but are still green and yellow and every color in between. The mountains are so different than I am used to in Arizona. And the many tunnels…short ones, long ones – the Italians love to make tunnels and they are quite good at it. The train makes a final stop at Foligno and I change to a train for Spello.
From the Spello train station, I can easily walk to the Centro Storico area. Italy has about 248 mountain top villages…I think the first 20 I visit will be interesting, after that, not so much. But for now, I can’t wait to see what is in Spello. The mountain top villages generally used the type of rock of the mountain to build the village. The colors of the rock of my village, the buildings – are a mix of light and dark gray and black and every shade in between. Spello is a muted reddish color with shades that are light. Quite interesting. Spello has about 8500 residents, in the village and below. The village is a walk up hill, which I am used to, and so much to see. It reminds me of San Gmiginano in Tuscany. Also on a mountain top. Same coloration. And both villages have built streets and access for tourists. Spello is an artsy village and they also have so many restaurants. Anytime tourism is involved, you can bet prices are a premium. But still, it is just lovely. The flowers are simply outrageous ! Everywhere! They must have a contest as some areas had lovely ceramic plaques (small) that stated they won 1st place, etc. I think I like that idea. I can easily see that I am going to have to get my ‘flower’ game going!!! I think I would like to make my area outside my apartment gorgeous! Some great ideas…check out the photos!
Finally up the hill a ways, I find a Cafe and have my cappuccino decaf. The lady who waits on me is grumbling to the man she is working with. I catch the word “Americano” and I am guessing that after morning, having a decaf cappuccino if not popular with Italians. They don’t do it. They drink a ‘cafe’ – expresso shot in the morning. Oh well, it was lovely and I sat outside pondering this small village. Very welcoming other than the cranky lady.
I know this sounds trivial but…Italians do not eat butter. They bake with it. Not a kitchen staple for them, and definitely not on toast. Which I love. I have been on the hunt for a butter dish with a lid. No dice. I mean nowhere!! I don’t eat that much butter but the butter here is unsalted for the most part, which is fine with me, and just fresh and pure. Anyhow, I did find a rectangular plate in colors I like but no lid. And it was $17.50. Tourist prices. I did not get it. Having something silly to hunt for is great fun. And when I am exhausted, I can find something on Amazon.it
I keep taking photos and then a church. Doors were open, and again, absolutely stunning. The artistry is beyond anything I could believe. The churches / cathedrals / duomos in Italy are the finest in the world. The cost to build them hundreds of years ago…must have been quite exorbitant and yet each one seems more unbelievable than the last one. Spello does not disappoint. I walked on and eventually saw a hole in the wall restaurant. It looked like a place the locals would go. Only 3 tables seating 6 people. Tiny. The menu had lots of meat stuff so I asked the young man if he had some vegetarian options? He said how about a porcini pasta? Mushrooms. Oh yes. And a small glass of local Spello red wine. The pasta was amazing and the wine quite good. Reasonably priced. Then I walked on in a large circle and saw even more flowers and ideas! Oh I think I am going to do this hanging flower thing.
The narrow road took me back towards where I started, but there were 3 women walking towards me. One asked me in Italian about a pizza restaurant from where I had come from. I realized she was an American and I answered, no, none back that way. And then the four of us started chatting. Their husbands were ahead and came back to chat also. I cherish the moments with other Americans. I miss speaking English..not that my Italian is good, I understand and can read more than I can speak, but immersion is pulling me along. Very nice folks – they were staying in Florence. How fun. I walked to a place called Piazza Belvedere. The views were just gorgeous. Green lush fields and hills. So many trees. I’m in a postcard. How did I get so lucky?
Spello has a very special festival after Easter…The Infiorate di Spello has 1000 people working incessantly to create carpets and pictures made of flowers along the town’s narrow streets. Floral creations cover streets throughout the historical center in preparation for the passage of the Blessed Sacrament carried in procession by the bishop on Sunday morning. A one mile long path of beautiful floral creations with an explosion of colors and scents. I think I must make this festival !!!!
A short walk back to the train station and I headed back home. The beauty of these villages is breathtaking. I’m always curious about these towns, who built them, when and were they able to keep invaders out?
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Your blog is fun to read. I love how you venture out and then share with us. The Italian people are creative. You can see it in everything from cathedrals down to carrot peelers.
I stayed in Spello for a week … about a decade ago. It is an enchanting place. I still remember the autumnal smells of burning chestnut wood coming from the homes as I walked along the narrow stone alleyways.
Oh on butter … Some Italians will spread it on toast and put an anchovy on top … sounds odd but it is delicious!
I think I smelled the chestnuts. Yes a lovely village. Hoping I can make the flower festival next year.